Reconstructed pile dwelling on Lake Constance in Germany (click for larger image)
The 184.5 Kilometer stage from Morges on Lake Geneva to La Chaux-de-Fonds in the Jura Mountains carries us between two UNESCO World Heritage sites. We begin near prehistoric pile dwellings along the lake and finish at the center of Swiss watch manufacturing in the mountains of northwest Switzerland. An appropriate span for the first stage of a Swiss race perhaps, as it takes us from the earliest settled inhabitants of the area, to the manufacturing for which modern Switzerland may be best known.
The prehistoric pile dwelling sites in Morges are part of more than one hundred scattered around the alps that were collectively declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. The dwellings are located near water sources, rivers or lakes, which accounts both for the piles driven into the earth on which they were built and the preservation of the wooden pilings until the present day. The settlements based on the pile dwellings were built during the Neolithic and Bronze Ages, ranging from 5000 to 500 BC. Unlike the residents of the Jura Mountains where we finish the day, the residents of the pile dwellings lived on rich agricultural land near reliable water sources, and so were able to settle down and become farmers. Because of the high quality of the preservation and the exactness with which dating can be done from the wood, they have proved to be valuable archaeological sites, providing insight into farming and trade patterns over the very long period of their existence.
At the other end of our course, La Chaux-de-Fonds, the arrival town, along with the nearby town of Le Locle are north of Lausanne and Morges, near the French border in the Canton of Neufchâtel. The towns themselves are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site because of their long history of watchmaking. The towns are all the more remarkable, because like Chicago, fires allowed for a redesign of the cities from the ground up. The fires, in 1794 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and 1833 and 44 in Le Locle, happened in towns that were already devoted to watchmaking, and when they were rebuilt they were entirely built around this one manufacturing goal. The buildings of the town and the workshops, factories and dwellings were all designed around the watchmaking industry, integrating peoples small businesses with their homes, and arranging the whole to facilitate the watchmaking business. A whole town designed by the precise minds of Swiss watchmakers.
The long history of watchmaking in the two towns is traced back to the now mythical figure of Daniel Jean-Richard at the end of the 17th century. Industry was encouraged in the region because the land, resting on porous limestone, was poorly suited to farming. During the 18th century the watchmaking continued to grow with vigor from new, innovative entrepreneurs, and survived challenges from American competition late in the century. By the mid-nineteenth century when Karl Marx wrote about it, the system was well-established, and in his discussion of the process one can see how a whole town could be built around a single industry. In Section 3 of Chapter 14 of Capital, Marx writes, discussing the watch as an example of heterogeneous manufacture(from the 1906 Modern Library Edition):
Formerly the individual work of a Nuremberg artificer, the watch has been transformed into the social product of an immense number of detail labourers, such as mainspring makers, dial makers, spiral spring makers, jewelled hole makers, ruby lever makers, hand makers, case makers, screw makers, gilders, with numerous sub-divisions, such as wheel makers (brass and steel separate), pin makers, movement makers, acheveur de pignon (fixes the wheels on the axles, polishes the facets, &c.), pivot makers, planteur de finissage (puts the wheels and springs in the works), finisseur de barillet (cuts teeth in the wheels, makes the holes of the right size, &c.), escapement makers, cylinder makers for cylinder escapement, escapement wheel makers, balance wheel makers, raquette makers (apparatus for regulating the watch), the planteur d’échappement (escapement maker proper); then the repasseur de barrillet (finishes the box for the spring, &c.), steel polishers, wheel polishers, screw polishers, figure painters, dial enamellers (melt the enamel on the copper), fabricant de pendants (makes the ring by which the case is hung), finisseur de charnière (puts the brass hinge in the cover, &c.), faiseur de secret (puts in the springs that open the case), graveur, ciseleur, polisseur de boîte, &c., &c., and last of all the repasseur, who fits together the whole watch and hands it over in a going state. Only a few parts of the watch pass through several hands; and all these membra disjecta come together for the first time in the hand that binds them into one mechanical whole.
After that extensive listing of parts, one is no longer surprised that watchmaking can sustain an entire town, rather that it does not take a large metropolis to cover all those diverse endeavors, each with many individual workshops. He then goes on to discuss the difference between our new friends in Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fonds, with their whole town approach, and the factories in Geneva, and he suggests the superiority of the independent, whole town, method:
The detail operations may further be carried on like so many independent handicrafts, as they are in the Cantons of Vaud and Neufchâtel; while in Geneva there exist large watch manufactories where the detail labourers directly co-operate under the control of a single capitalist…To carry on the trade as a manufacture, with concentration of workmen, is, in the watch trade, profitable only under exceptional conditions, because competition is greater between the labourers who desire to work at home…
Finally, to that discussion, he drops a footnote that brings us all the way into La Chaux-de-Fond:
1 In the year 1854 Geneva produced 80,000 watches, which is not one-fifth of the production in the Canton of Neufchâtel. La Chaux-de-Fond alone, which we may look upon as a huge watch manufactory, produces yearly twice as many as Geneva…
The watch industry has gone through many changes since Marx used it as an example of heterogeneous manufacture, having faced competition from all corners of the globe, but Marx may have been on to something about the quality of the method in Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fond, because they are still making watches after all these years. Responding to changes in technology, the towns have also managed to diversify into manufacturing other small mechanical machines.
So as they are racing into town, keep in mind how many steps it takes to make a good watch, at least a mechanical one, and how the whole town was organized around this one endeavor. Perhaps next year they can manage to have a time trial from Le Locle to La Chaux-de-Fonds, although at about 9 kms it may be a little long for their incredibly short prologues.
Tags: 2012, La Chaux-de-Fonds, local history, Morges, Tour de Romandie